Wednesday 15/06/2011 Bares to Ribadeo

Bares beach looked just as lovely this morning when we left and motored out with very little wind past the mouth of the Ria de Vivero. After a while we got a really good breeze and stanked along through flat water at around six knots.

It was very peaceful with beautiful scenery and no noise apart form the interruption of heavily accented English coming from a radio operator evidently on motor tanker Accord, trying to get hold of San Ciprián Port Control, who declined to answer. With every reason. Judging by the time, they will have been at siesta and even motor tankers have to wait for this. The landscape changed from craggy granite headlands to softer rolling foothills and lush looking pasture. It was a bit like going from Cornwall to Devon and indeed the river at Ribadeo forms the border between Galicia and Asturias.Asturias is the name on every milk bottle in Spain, and so far it looks like being green and beautiful. I hadn’t realised until today that there’s something about fields and cows and birdsong that makes me feel at home, but I think that’s what growing up in Dorset does for you. Unfortunately with fields and cows and birdsong come flies and other insects, and today we had a proliferation of those dirty mean looking things I call house flies (which begs the questions what were they doing on the boat) and some bees who couldn’t get enough of the yellow horseshoes and the packaging of the peanuts we were eating.

Ribadeo’s the last of the rias, as well as the last place in Galicia, so we said goodbye to the coast of death as we headed in. Although it is possible to anchor in the ria here, we were in need of showers and a washing machine, so we’ve tucked into the marina here.

The ria itself is very different from the others we’ve stopped in; the land is much lower lying and it’s sandier and shallower here. But it’s also very pretty and it was lovely to see a little lateen rigged boat out sailing today. There’s a small fleet of them here in the harbour, and judging by what he told us one of them must belong to our nice customs man from Vigo.

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