We motored for most of the morning yesterday through the lovely calm water that gave us such a good night’s sleep the night before, past lots of small fishing boats and seagulls fishing off the Isla de Salvora.
We passed the entrance to the Ria de Arosa and as we got closer to the Ria de Muros, the breeze picked up for the day and gave us a great sail into the ria through flat water, which means Planet sails fast and light and you can put a cup of coffee down anywhere without it falling over.
The anchorage off Muros itself looked perfect to sail into, so we got everything ready and did a couple of tacks in to clear the mussel rafts off the bay of Muros.
There were a couple of boats already anchored but Planet behaved herself perfectly, and we managed to sail in, drop the peak to scandalize the main and slow her down (the closest thing to braking under sail), anchor in a good spot with good holding, then by backing the main and doing a cheeky bit of stern-boarding reverse her to pay out the chain and set the anchor. Plus we managed to do it all without actually needing to say anything to each other or breaking into a sweat. Phew! We felt pretty pleased with ourselves and quickly sat ourselves down in the cockpit for a gin and tonic (we had run out of anything else to drink) trying to look as though we did this all the time. Even more happily, we discovered that one of the boats in the anchorage was flying a Cruising Association flag, so we quickly hoisted ours. We’d thought it might be better to wait until we were safely anchored, just in case it had gone horribly wrong….
We’ve spent the day in Muros today, as the wind is still from the north and so not ideal for trying to get round Finisterre. But the forecast looks good for tomorrow, and there is even an exciting rumour of south westerly winds over the next few days, which would be amazing, so fingers crossed. There’s a great market here in Muros, which is the prettiest ria we’ve seen so far.
Everyone says it reminds them of Scotland, but as ridiculously I’ve never been there I couldn’t say. Although if Scotland is as lovely as here, I’m going. We also needed fuel, and after seeing the big Repsol sign in the harbour on our way in we were pretty hopeful. The pilot book seemed to corroborate this. However, it would appear that they are building a new marina in Muros harbour. The pontoons are there, although there are no cleats, and the fuel quay is there too, but it is not actually finished yet. I should think it’ll be great place once it is though.
So instead we grabbed a couple of cans and asked a group of old men sitting outside one of the café bars on the front smoking and drinking beer, who looked like they would know. They directed us to the other side of the bay, where the nearest road petrol station is. So we got back in Satellite and motored across to the beach opposite the anchorage and landed there. I stepped out and saw another old man on his bicycle up by the road waving and shouting at us.
Assuming we’d landed on someone’s private beach, and were being evicted I went up to speak to him. Are you German? he shouted. No. He nodded. It is too far from here. What is? How do you know where we’re going? Go over there, under the bridge, then it’s on your right. OK. So we go under the bridge? To get to the… Petrol station. That’s where you’re going isn’t it? I smiled and we thanked him and headed off again under the incredibly low bridge that you had to shoot lying down Bond style to get to the small beach the other side two minutes walk from the petrol station. What a legend. Muros is evidently a small place.
We spent the rest of the day doing some shopping and getting little jobs done on Planet, then had a lovely evening on our neighbours’ boat who kindly invited us over for a drink. They’re off in the other direction to us and have let us know about one or two good places around the dreaded corner that is Finisterre. We could happily stay longer here, but we’re planning to make a reasonably early start and head round to the Ria de Camariñas tomorrow. Here’s hoping we’ve got the forecast right and Finisterre will be as anticlimactic as the other great capes and straits we have passed through so far trouble free.