We walked around the old village of Combarro this morning, past the old grain stores called horreos and the granite houses with quays down to the water, a bit like some of the houses on the waterfront in Fowey, except without the deep river running by.
Combarro is definitely worth a visit if you’re in Galicia, and the old village is very pretty. However, it is obviously a bit of a honeypot for Galician tourism, and as we were making our way back to Planet the first coachload of BHS clad daytrippers was arriving.
By the looks of things, most of Combarro’s inhabitants have long ceased to make their living from the water or the land, and instead are plying a steady trade of tourist tat, with a particular emphasis on plastic witch figurines, although thankfully falling short of the standards set by A Coven of Witches in Burley and The Fairy Wing Repair Shop in Ormskirk, shops which both make me shudder as I pass.
We were planning to stop somewhere in the Ria de Arosa tonight, but as we left Combarro a bit later than we thought we might, we decided to have a look at San Vicente, on the south side of the Grove peninsula. Getting in and out of the rias can take a little while as there are often islands or rocks at the entrance, so we thought we’d try to save ourselves a bit of time in the morning and cut the amount of time motoring along today and anchor off the little harbour here for the night.
Although it is a bit exposed, there was no swell or wind forecast, and a safe (albeit 20 euros a night for a mooring buoy) harbour only metres away, so we risked missing somewhere amazing in Arosa in favour of a long and peaceful evening at anchor in what turns out to be a very pretty, quiet bay.